anglage:
Representing far more than a mere functional necessity, watchmaking finishes correspond to a philosophy : passion and respect for tine workmanship, as well as the desire to enrich a part through the care devoted to even the slightest details. In the pursuit of aesthetic perfection, each detail is important because it contributes to enhancing the watch as a whole. From this standpoint, it is important to grasp the difference between finishing and decoration. Decoration implies ornamentation, an adornment that will embellish the part (cote de Genève, chasing, engraving etc…) ; on the other hand, the only value added of the finish is the quality of the craftsmanship.
http://www.watches-lexic.ch/pages/fr/tec/fs_exp14.htmThis cut-down angle is first and foremost a form of trimming which makes the parts less fragile during handling: moreover, polishing limits the risk of corrosion. Parts could be roughly trimmed, but the determination to accomplish a fine piece of workmanship and to create optical effects leads the craftsman to polish the chamfer. (Photo 5)
Note :
- (photo 6) non-decorated prototype of a grande sonnerie minute repeater mechanism
- (photo 7) decorated movement of a grande sonnerie, minute repeater, carillon, power-reserve and dynamograph mechanism
Aesthetic criteria of bevelling : regularity is important. The bevel must not start off small and end up larger.
The curve of the bevel should be beautiful : the angle is curved or very slightly rounded It is crucial that the bevelled edge be clean , even under a magnifying glass.
Twisted bevels are not pleasing. The bevel may be regular but must not twist like a propeller blade.
Faceted bevels are unacceptable, as they give an unrefined appearance.
Dull patches are dark. The quality of polish must be impeccable.
Subjective ?
A watch with no decorations, but which has nonetheless been carefully assembled, works very well* (photo 6), yet the watch appears lifeless and lacks luminosity: one might say it has no soul. The absence of a fine finish detracts from the effect of the precision devoted to the parts in mechanical, horological and assembly terms.
On the other hand, (photo no. 7) provides a better idea of just how meticulous the work of bevelling actually is, requiring tremendous dexterity. One might nonetheless argue that all these efforts imply a great deal of time and serve no functional purpose ; nonetheless, is it not obvious that this all-but forgotten art gives each part a remarkable aesthetic finish that enhances the appeal and value of the watch as a whole ?
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